Saturday – March 6, 2010 to Tuesday – March 16, 2010
Dear Family and Friends,
Ahhh, finally on the road again for our much anticipated passage to the great northwest. 5th wheel in tow, we found ourselves with ample time to ponder important questions such as the curious benefit of raising goats, how to pronounce “Withlacoochee” River, and where shall we set up camp tonight?..just a little travel humor, folks.
Our first stop was Florida Caverns State Park. Love seeing new places in Florida too. We took a walk down to the mysterious Chipola River observing its quiet meanderings thru cypress swamps marked with cypress knees…one could imagine disappearing in it, never to be heard of again. Before leaving the park we toured the caverns. While navigating the sometimes slippery, low passages we had the curious experience of spotting a few bats nestled against the cool cave walls. As we continued our exploration of stalagmites and stalagtites, I would occasionally feel a drop of water on my face from the cave ceiling illustrating the one hundred year period it takes to form just an inch of drip formation…amazing.
We made up some time by taking 1-10 straight thru Alabama, Mississippi, and ending at Tickfaw State Park in Louisianna for an “over-night”. Next morning, after a quick hike around the swamps, we continued cross country. It’s always fun to check out some of the local cuisine so we stopped for lunch at a little country Cajun store offering “boudin” sausage. We also purchased a Cajun stuffed pork chop the size of a small roast, which Randy insisted we needed for some future meal. Sharing some Cajun fried seafood from the kitchen, my favorite being the catfish, we managed to satisfy our hunger and face the open road once again.
Texas is a very big state to drive through so after 3 more days of travel we decided to break and revisit Big Bend National Park. Located in western Texas next to the Mexican border this is the place where the Rio Grande River meets the Chihuahuan Desert which meets the Chisos Mountains. We were greeted with a subtle taste of the desert in bloom with Torrey Yucca boasting creamy white flowers, Ocotillo cacti budding tiny red flowers on its tips, and scattered wild flowers along the roadside.
What do Coral reefs, cave formations, and desert landscapes all have in common? They share a vulnerability to the human touch. Just one finger or foot print can destroy a piece of living coral, a stalagmite, or the desert floor ecosystems. It takes hundreds of years for these structures to develop. With that in mind hiking is the sport of choice in this park and believe it or not, kayaking on the Rio Grande requires a passport. The Rio Grande is the natural border separately Mexico from the U.S. weaving in and out of both nations. Many Mexicans ride their horses or canoes across the river to sell their wares.
Years of eroding sediment expose the primordial lava beds that designed the Chisos Mountains. Their topography viewed from afar seems so surreal while up close it is larger than life. This same sediment finds its way into the wild and scenic Rio Grande River mixing with its green waters to carve out great canyons. We had the thrill of exploring some for the first time like Santa Elena and others revisited like Boquillas Canyon. I watched a group of young people hike up the side of one canyon to a gaping hole which in reality was the size of a large a home when I zoomed in with my camera…the scale of the landscape is hard to fathom. I read somewhere that life is lived in the details. In Tuff Canyon I experienced such a detail, “standing there looking out into the canyon I closed my eyes. Hearing the utter silence, I lifted my arms out to embrace the most exquisite moment. The sun warmed me and I smiled. I followed a path woven gently down her side to the waiting river below inviting me to enter the very depths and cool shadows of my soul.”
Believe it or not, there is a bit of a routine one acclimates to and after our first week on the road we seem to have adjusted to our adventurous lifestyle. We decided to revisit some of our favorite places along the way and are now in Santa Fe, New Mexico for a few days. Soon we will head up into Colorado and into unexplored territory for us.
Xo,
Julie and Randy
Wednesday – March 17, 2010 thru March 23, 2010.
Before leaving the Santa Fe area we made reservations to take the tour of Georgia O’Keeffe’s winter home and studio located in the village of Abiquiu. I could not believe our luck as tours just resumed March 16th after being closed for the winter. For those of you unfamiliar with O’Keeffe, she is an American Icon in the art world…probably best known for her rather erotic flower paintings. I fell in love with her adobe home. Every courtyard, window and room was designed to please the eye and soothe the spirit. Such a rare, intimate glimpse into her life and home decorated with stark simplicity, a love of nature, her rock collections, and sculpture. How extraordinary to have stood in her STUDIO!! Such personal effects such as a tiny bundle of feathers tied together like a bouquet hung on one wall near her work table…reference my mantra of this trip that life is lived in the details. Wish they allowed us more time to soak it all in but alas the tour only lasted an hour.
Later that same day, we revisited Ghost Ranch Country, 13 miles up the road, and camped in a most spectacular place boasting the Echo Amphitheater. “What is that”, you may ask? Its Mother Nature’s creation of a mountain wall, painted with layers of colorful sediment, concave and capable of bouncing off sounds that come back to you. I will definitely send pictures of this place. Juniper trees with spiraling, twisted trunks abound, emanating a spiritual vortex similar to that in Sedona, Arizona.
I was sitting in the woods at the base of the amphitheater, warm sun on my back, painting and journaling in relative solitude, when a local New Mexican gentleman walked by. Striking up a conversation he mentioned many interesting things about the area including the fact that this is mountain lion country and one must take care and be aware. Afterwards, I quietly packed up my belongings and headed back to camp!
Next day we traveled as far as Alamosa, Colorado in the San Luis Valley. Hit by a winter storm we quickly found a place to camp and bunker down for the night. I haven’t seen snow like this since I left Michigan back in 1979. Soft, fat flakes created a winter wonderland, allowing me time to catch up on electronic “stuff” like e-mail, journaling, downloading pictures from my camera, etc. Tomorrow we are hoping to visit Great Sand Dunes NP up the road…if we’re not snowed in, that is.
We awoke to blue skies and blinding sunshine reflecting off the snow for our trek to Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve. Once there we witnessed huge dunes covering more than 330 sq. miles making them the tallest in North America. Acting as a backdrop, the rugged, dark blue San de Cristo Mountains showed off their snow capped peaks for us. We are continually fascinated by the unique differences in the mountain topography and colors as we travel from region to region.
Traveling is the exploration not only of sights, but also of sounds, smells, textures, and history. With that in mind, we drove another 2 days arriving at our next destination, the great Rocky Mountain National Park. Heading into the only road navigable with our 5th wheel we passed amazing vistas of snow covered peaks reaching an elevation of 9500’. With snow blowing off the tips against an intensely blue sky, we are inspired to join the local hikers and reach the summit too. However, one needs poles and snow shoes to attempt these icy trails and us Florida flatlanders have only kayaks growing icicles strapped to the roof of our dually truck. Ah well…however, Lana demonstrates her willingness to start a Chihuahuan dog sled team as she bounds through the snow.
We took scenic highway 7 and headed south from the park to interstate 70 switch-backing our way through more incredible mountains and eventually crossing the continental divide at 11,200’. “Look, there’s an interesting character, looks like Forrest Gump riding his bike across the country”. We passed through mountain tunnels, historic mining towns, and famous ski resorts like Vail and Copper Mountain. Melting snow trickled down the rough rock and into the mighty Colorado River. A railroad track, hugging the canyon wall, follows the river’s path as it continuously carves out the landscape. We decide to spend just one night next to the river at Glen Springs because the following day another winter storm is supposed to hit. Our next destination is Utah promising a whole different experience and new mountains to see.
Xo, Julie and Randy
PS You’re welcome to view our newest albums at Walgreens which correspond to this e-journal. You will have to sign up but it only takes a minute and it doesn’t cost anything.
March 24th thru March 31st, 2010
Hey Everyone! Driving thru the rugged, wild, west in virtual luxury, Randy and I continuously wonder how the pioneers in their covered wagons made it thru prickly deserts and over daunting mountains! We obviously have time to ponder such musings as we continue to make our way to the Pacific Coast.
“Welcome to Utah”, the sign says. Bouncing down the road we reflect on our surroundings as we travel through more spectacular canyons of ear popping proportions. We found a campground, just outside of Arches National Park in the town of Moab, as a base for the next few days. Virtually a “wilderness of rock” the major formations viewed in Arches and Canyonlands National Parks are salmon colored entrada sandstone and buff colored Navajo sandstone. Ancient faults and fractures in the earth + water +gravity +time + erosion = canyons, mesas, buttes, fins, arches, spires, and pinnacles as far as the eye can see. Check out my photographs as they illustrate many of these features.
I am totally fascinated with the untrammeled desert floor protected in the National Parks. Where people walk and cattle graze desert crust gets destroyed and so does its beauty.
Thus the key to the magical quality of the desert is this beautiful, brown biological soil crust which takes many years to develop. Composed of cyanobacteria, lichen, algae, and fungi, the crust combats erosion, absorbs moisture, and provides nitrogen, and other nutrients for plant growth. Now I know why the deserts are so outstanding in the National Parks, it’s all in the crust. How was that for a quick science lesson?
Before leaving this area we treated ourselves to a dinner out at “Bucks”. Don’t laugh, it was surprising upscale as we started our dining experience with warm, crusty bread, a mojito for me and a Heineken for Randy. Next, our entree arrived and I dove into my polenta vegetable lasagna while Randy enjoyed his buffalo meatloaf. It was all uniquely delicious.
Planting ourselves in Southern Utah for 4 nights enabled us to travel through the back roads and investigate Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks. We absorbed as much as we could...red rock canyons, tunnels through mountains, hiking along mountain creeks, taking in panoramic views with rock formations as far as the eye can see. I spotted some young people rock climbing up the shear side of a mountain, unreal...I've only seen that in magazine pictures. Bryce Canyon’s main attraction were the pinnacle like sandstone formations called hoodoos seeming to grow out of the canyon by the hundreds, while Zion was so accessible. Red roads made from the surrounding soil furnished a smooth ride throughout the park all the way to the bottom of the canyon. Over a million people world wide visit these parks annually so we were happy to beat the summer time crowds.
Just west of Bryce Canyon is Red Canyon. My favorite so far this trip, it is bathed in vermilion red rock and green Juniper trees standing as sentinels bearing witness to the majic here. Trails winding thru pink and red hoodoos made for an intriguing sojourn, a place I did not want to leave.
We witnessed our first desert dust storm. Taking I-15 North to Salt Lake City, the road stretched out over dry flat lands between mountain ranges. Winds out of the west stirred up distant cyclonic clouds of sand creating a wall of stormy dust. At first we watched the system from a distance. Stopping for a burger, the winds gusted greater than 90 mph ripping the passenger door from my hand as tumble weeds blew over my head. Eventually, we arrived in SLC engulfed in a cloud of dust, the sun trying to burn a hole thru the dense atmosphere. The air was breathable as we set up camp and by morning it was gone with a gentle snow taking its place.
Since snow was forecasted for the next few days we decided to head west on I-80 for Reno. With increasing snowfall the mountains were barely visible. At first we thought we were looking at wet sands stretching on for miles then Randy realized we were driving through the Bonneville Salt Flats, the place where record land speeds are set. A terrain literally made of salt showed evidence of people parking along the roadside using the flats as a kind of palette and making graffiti out of small rocks and bottles. For example, people wrote their names, made symbols of crosses, hearts, etc, using rocks. This went on for miles. A very curious bit of business there but that’s what makes new places so interesting, right?
More writings in a few weeks starting with our arrival in Nevada…
March 31, 2010 Thru April 14, 2010
Hi all!
Here in Nevada, some of the benefits of wide open spaces are being able to see both the beginning and the end of a train in one glance. A distant storm system can be viewed in all its splendor and pending force with a panoramic inspection. Ordinarily hidden from view, by a forest perhaps, are interesting sights from the highway like steamy vents in the landscape to be exclaimed over.
Arriving in Reno, we investigated the casinos and scenic downtown river walk where we watched some world class kayakers work the rapids doing flips in their small crafts. We still haven’t used our kayaks…30’s and bitter, winds is just too cold for us Floridians.
We are in gold country folks! There were once many small towns in the height of the gold rush having since melted back into the ground. A bit of trivia we learned; what may appear to be a random copse of trees can actually signify the remains of a small town out here. A short jaunt from Reno brought us to Virginia City where the series, Bonanza, was filmed. Once upon a time, the mining of gold and silver from the surrounding hills turned grubby prospectors into millionaires. Visiting the historic saloons, old mansions, and places of trade, one can get a taste of “the way it was”. We continued our way into Silver and Carson Cities taking numerous photos of old mining shafts scattered throughout the high desert region. We started our ascent up to Lake Tahoe too but were met with blizzard conditions so we had to turn back.
In my opinion, one of the most challenging chores on a long trip like ours is maintaining my hair. In a few days we would be visiting some of Randy’s family, whom I had not yet met, so a little maintenance was in order. I’m just not ready to go au natural, letting my gray take over, so the time had come for a game plan to administer my hair color in the confines of the condo camper. I had at first contemplated using the shower up at the camping office to rinse the dye from my hair but cold weather prohibited that idea. So after protecting the floor with an old throw, Randy applied the color and I rinsed it off 20 minutes later in our small shower with an even smaller hot water tank. I was afraid I might run out of warm water half way thru the process but I had become practiced in the art of water preservation and had plenty to spare. A few days later, I chose a random beauty shop in Napa Valley for a haircut. Randy dropped me off while he visited the local Home Depot. I was a little wary, not knowing what the outcome might be, but the beautician proved to be skilled in her craft and turned out a decent cut. Whew, what a relief it all turned out ok.
Easter Sunday put us in “wine country”, Napa, CA. Everything is so green compared with Nevada and Southern Utah. Leaving the snow behind us, we were greeted with California poppies blooming in riotous color together with other wild flowers along the roadside…just lovely.
We took a train thru the Napa Valley past rolling hills and famous vineyards while enjoying a spectacular gourmet lunch and lots of wine tasting. We also got off the train to tour the Grgich Vineyards and sample their wines. Back on the train again, we finished with dessert on our way back to the depot. This was a real treat for us with perfect weather in the 60’s. Randy described it quite eloquently, “the symmetry of the grape arbors perfectly compliments the rolling green hills they are planted upon.”
We had the pleasure of staying 3 nights with some of Randy’s kin, Dave & Pat Wolfgram and family in Alamo, just a short distance from San Francisco. Imagine walking down to the end of their street and finding ourselves hiking thru the cool green hills…we got a good cardio workout trying to keep up. They took us on a whirl wind tour of the bay area including panoramic views of the Golden Gate and Bay Bridges…Pier 39…Fisherman’s Wharf…lunched at Boudin, Dave’s Restaurant, along with a tour of how Boudin’s makes it’s famous sourdough bread…Lombard Street…China town and lots more. They opened their beautiful home to us with such gracious hospitality and we hope to reciprocate someday. Miss you all!
A few hours down the road brought us to Santa Rosa and Randy’s cousin Cheryl’s lovely home over looking vineyards. Again, we were spoiled with hospitality for a few more nights. Despite the rain, Cheryl and Peter drove us to Bodega Bay for some spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean and clam chowder. Along the way we viewed some local art and ended our tour of the area with a drive thru a Redwood Forest. Wow, those winding mountain roads can be a bit dizzying for us flatlanders. Heck, they even over-hauled my weathered hiking boots with some polish and buffing! Love you guys!
Before leaving California we stayed a few nights camped in the Redwood National and State Parks. The Redwood Forests were veiled in a mysterious fog curling up out of the hills like so many campfires. Gentle rain and mud, sloshed together with pine needles, created a path through lush fern and clover while overhead a bird’s cry, possibly from the nearly extinct Murrelet, could be heard from high above in the giant trees. I craned my neck back to look up at the tree tops but the damp mist shrouded them from view. It was easy to imagine a dinosaur crashing through that ancient forest. Hiking through the tallest trees in the world is a humbling experience.
As we leave beautiful California behind and press on thru Oregon we look forward to more adventures ahead. As always, we will keep you posted.
XO,
Julie and Randy
PS We are nearly half way through our trip and have traveled 6300 miles (taking many back-roads).
April 15, 2010 thru April 22, 2010
Well hello there!
We do a lot of crossword puzzles and one clue that seems to fit in our lives at the moment is to consume with relish…the answer is devour…as in trying to take in our surroundings with a passionate desire to remember it always.
My first impression of Oregon was of waterfalls spilling from sharp rock into the raging, boiling, turquoise waters of the Middlefork Smith River. We took a scenic byway running next to this wild river for many miles. It can be exhausting for Randy driving and pulling our 5th wheel along the many switch-backed, narrow mountain roads so we decided to forego the Oregon Coast and make some mileage progress. There is so much to see everywhere we go that even with 3 months of time the trip becomes about making choices. We contemplated seeing Crater Lake but were warned that a large snow fall would make it difficult to visit. After miles of forested mountains followed by farming flatlands, the city of Portland appears in a maze of highways, skyscrapers, and bridges. We traveled over the mighty Columbia River, a natural border between the capital of Oregon and state of Washington to see the welcome sign.
Unexpected pleasures seem to pop up along the journey. For example, the Woodland Tulip Festival was going on a short distance from our campground and we felt compelled to see it on our way to Mount St. Helens. I didn’t know what to expect and was pleasantly surprised by the fields of tulips blooming in every imaginable color and variety; a virtual dream come true for flower lovers.
In the Southwest Washington Cascade Mountains, three prominent snow-capped volcanoes, Mount Adams, Mount Rainier, and Mount St. Helens command the skyline view. A last minute decision brought us to the destination of Mount St. Helens Volcanic Monument. We thought it would be interesting to explore and learn about a geological event in our lifetime. We couldn’t even remember when this event occurred. The May 18, 1980 eruption leveled 230 square miles of forest in less than 10 minutes and sent 540,000 tons of ash rocketing 15 miles above the crater into the stratosphere. The eruption began with a massive landslide releasing trapped magma and gas. This produced a lateral blast of hot rock that buried 14 miles of river valley to an average depth of 150 feet, killing trees up to 17 miles north of the volcano while pumice and hot gasses, called pyroclastic flows, made their way into the valley north of the crater. We are reminded of the unbelievable power and forces of Mother Nature. From “chaos to creation”, Mount St. Helens has become a study of earth processes and nature’s ecosystem recovery following large-scale disturbances. Ironically, we just heard on the news of the volcanic eruption in Iceland today, where the landscape there will be changed forever as well.
On the road again, we were back to narrow coastal terrain, this time along the Hood Canal. Miles of coastline beach made up of rocks and oyster beds are revealed during 10’-20’ tidal flow and dotted with people digging for oysters. Hmmm, I just might need to eat some.
Today we hiked thru an emerald green forest with black tailed deer eating undisturbed nearby, to see a waterfall in Olympic National Park. We also drove up past the clouds, high into the Cascade Mountains for a spectacular view of the snow and glacier covered peaks...we must be on top of the world. Ending our day at Maria’s Mexican Restaurant for some truly fabulous food we are full and ready for bed.
I was reluctant to leave Port St. Angeles, the farthest northwest corner in this nation, so we decided to stay one more night. Back into the Olympic NP we passed a lot of logging trucks along the way. A sign said the logging helps to pay for hospitals and schools…guess you can’t argue with that. Lake Crescent is all about reflections of mountains and trees in her clear, deep, teal, depths. A glacier once carved the valley she now occupies. I found myself humming the song, “Beautiful Dreamer”, imagine that? At first glance, Rialto Beach appeared to be a stretch of fallen trees, but as we approached further we discovered the artistry of water, wind, and time on the wood, carving and polishing new shapes strewn in the charcoal, pumice-like beach sands. Cool winds lifted Pacific waters over rocks and flowed around small islands called Seastacks rising up near shore, once inhabited by the Quileute Indians.
Into the Hoh Temperate Rainforest we ventured, even the air is green and differing from her tropical sister in that only coniferous trees are found here. The Hall of Mosses Trail led me to my primeval spirit with mature spruce and hemlock covered in green draperies…smells of dampness mixed with decay and fresh new growth permeated the air…sounds of streams with dripping leaves and exotic chirpings of birds…the cool breath of fog against my cheek…such varieties of green in many textures. The branches of ancient maples resembled elk antlers covered in downy, soft, green, moss. I strolled next to the Hoh River watching it carry glacial waters over beds of rock while a nearby spring-fed stream meandered along the old forest path.
Seattle bound; we finally made it and were rewarded with a tour of one of the top attractions here in this area, the Big Dipper Wax Works. Owner and Founder, Brent Roose, took us on a tour of the facility where they make hand dipped 100% Beeswax candles in many aromatic scents…I came away with an assortment of the finest candles made in this great country of ours and a sense of the philosophy behind the production. I learned that, “Beeswax embodies the essence and energy of the beehive. They glow with a warm, golden flame that radiates with the same energy and spectrum of light as the sun.” Very cool, I mean warm!
We followed my brother in law, Brent, home and had the opportunity to meet his wife, Sue and their daughters. They have a darling home near Puget Sound where we shared some pizza and wine. The next day, we tackled the city of Seattle in all its wonderful diversity. The famous Pike Place Market with vendors of all sorts…fresh flowers, produce, fish, hand made gifts. We sampled smoked salmon, gourmet oysters, checked out the original Star Buck’s, Sue and the girls met us for dinner at La Vita E Bella in Belltown. I had a whole fish with head intact, grilled and awesome. Our meal ended with lavender ice cream. On our way out of the city we caught a glimpse of Mount Rainier’s majesty through the clouds, wow! What a great way to end our evening. We have been blessed with such wonderful hospitality…love and miss you all.
As we depart the state of Washington we look forward to our next stop, Glacier National Park in Montana. As always, we will try to keep you posted.
XO,
Julie and Randy
April 22, 2010 thru May 3, 2010
Hi All!
Leaving the coastal rains behind us in Seattle we enjoyed some sunshine and warmer temperatures while rambling down the highway to Montana. About two in the afternoon, a trucker pulled up along side us pointing to his CB Radio. Randy switched his CB on to communicate with the driver. Turns out we had a problem with part of the roof literally coming unglued on our 5th wheel. The driver offered to lead us to a RV repair shop up the road in Moses Lake, WA. Larry and Kathy, the owners, are just wonderful folks and offered to begin immediate repairs on it for us. We unhooked and wandered into town, grabbed a bite at Taco Bell, bought a few groceries and headed back with a twelve pack of beer for the crew. Upon our return, we were advised to let the “roof glue” dry over night before attempting windy travel down the interstate. They offered to let us stay there for the night, free of charge. We shared a few beers, a few stories, and a few jokes before they closed up shop and left us to our own devices. This particular story has serendipity written all over it for if the problem had continued to go undetected we could have suffered a collapsed roof with water damage…nice to meet good people.
Eventually we made it through Idaho arriving in Montana…I had a seventies moment thinking of an old Frank Zappa song about raising a crop of dental floss…lol…guess you had to have been there. We stayed at a KOA campground in Polson with a panoramic view overlooking beautiful Flathead Lake backed by the Mission Mountains and about 50 miles outside Glacier National Park. However, I awoke about 5AM the next morning with body aches and a low grade fever. No park exploration for us that day as I spent the remainder in bed. By the next morning I felt spunkier so we ventured into Glacier NP. The ranger we spoke with described the park as glaciated due to the sharp mountain peaks carved from huge glaciers millions of years ago. About 50 or so still remain from the last small ice age ending in 1850. Apparently it is difficult to see the glaciers until the snow melts. We were only able to go as far as 14 miles down “Going to the Sun Road” before meeting up with the winter barricade. We slowly made our way back along the “Avalanche Creek” with its rushing waters cascading over several waterfalls. This is beautiful, rugged country of which we have only seen a fraction of. Along Flathead Lake, on our way back to camp, we pass many “Cherry Orchards” flanked on either side of the road. They were still waiting to bloom, darn it.
We decided to stay one more day and visit National Bison Range not too far from our base camp. Weather was decent, 50’s-60’s and mostly sunny. I first spotted a small herd of Bison on a distant mountain side. Once in the park, we soon discovered how awesome these animals are as some meandered across the road in front of our truck. We also observed some Bison rolling in their dry, dust bed wallows to rid themselves of insects and winter fur. Pronghorn Antelope also grazed in the 18,700 acres of native prairie, forest, wetlands, and streams. What a wonderful experience to have seen the Bison up close and personal…glad someone fought to keep these beasts from extinction for all to enjoy.
Next, we arrived in Yellowstone National Park. Driving under the great stone arch inscribed with the famous words, “For the Enjoyment and Benefit of the People”, we observed elk as they grazed the grasslands. Weather was still decent but a big storm was headed in that night. We took Lana for a walk before dinner and wandered into the large, “closed for the winter” section of the campground. We discovered an elk carcass completely gutted with large animal scat, bear or mountain lion, containing bits of fur…kind of cool to observe the carnage of nature. The following morning greeted us with 35 degree temperatures and rain that quickly turned to snow. However, we were delighted to observe a small group of Bison grazing thru our campground. Dressed like Eskimos, we ventured out to see what we could of this beautiful park. We did get to walk through the Mammoth Hot Spring Terraces, “bubbling pools and steam percolating from the hot earth below”. Creating the colorful palette of stone terraces are organisms called thermophiles that are able to thrive in this environment. The geyser, Old Faithful, was 50 miles away from us and the road was closed due to snow and ice. Apparently, this late spring storm was here to stay for a few more days and we learned that roads thru the Grand Teton Mountains were closed as well. Awaking to more snow and ice the next morning, we made the difficult decision to move on.
Driving through the Black Hills of Wyoming we contemplated the fate of the American Indians and how they were forced to leave their lands. We made camp outside Devils Tower National Monument, a lone structure looming 867 feet up out of the forest, standing as a sentinel to the surrounding area. The following morning we drove up into the monument now shrouded in thick fog and it’s as if it never existed. The Kiowa Indians thought of this geologic wonder as a spiritual place and when we got a closer look we could feel the tower’s magic more than see it.
We arrived at Custer/Rushmore KOA located in the middle of the Black Hills with partly sunny skies, occasional snow flurries and a plan to use this area as our base for the next few days.
Jewel Cave National Monument took us through an intricate network of passages decorated with calcite crystals…kind of resembling a glittering coral reef. Our ranger guide suggested that this cave system offers the most opportunities for today’s cavers to explore and map new passages and chambers. We were told that these expeditions can involve 4 days spent underground, hiking over mounds of rock, or crawling on your belly through tight spaces. Now that’s what I call a pioneering spirit. One lady on the tour asked me if we were on a cross-country cave trek since I mentioned various caves that we had recently visited. I said, “No, but it sounds like a fascinating idea for the future”.
We have seen Mother Nature’s best carvings creating mountains, caves, and lakes. This Sunday we gazed upon Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse Mountain viewing carvings on mountain sides created by men and inspired by men…spectacular. Mount Rushmore was sculpted in commemoration of the four presidents, Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln, and Roosevelt who demonstrated the foundation, continental expansion, preservation, and conservation of the United States. We drove along Iron Mountain Road thru Custer State Park ending our afternoon with a piece of homemade rhubarb pie at “The Purple Pie Place”.
We only got about 80 miles down the road from Custer when we happened upon Badlands National Park in South Dakota. We were blessed with some amazing weather, blue skies, and warm temperatures in the 60’s. The Badlands are made up of soft sediments eroding into formations, some of which resembled huge sandcastles. All manner of plant and animal fossils are revealed, as wind and water continue to relentlessly scrape away the colorful layers. Created over millions of years ago from a shallow ocean and ancient jungle, this park continues to evolve and in 500,000 more years these soft sediment formations will have completely eroded away. Also encompassed in the park is the preservation of “Dances with Wolves” vast prairie lands for wild Bison to graze upon. Around every curve in the road is another vista of beauty. That night we camped next to the White River while enjoying a campfire and a sky full of stars! I could envision the Indians doing the same thing once upon a time, except for the “Stella Artois” beers of course.
Many of the National Parks we have visited so far this trip had large sections closed off until mid-May when their warmer season begins. We have experienced a lot of rain, snow, some hail but also warm sunshine to balance it out. Some of the higher alpine lakes and other curious topographic elements were unattainable by truck due to winter barricades. On the upside, we did not have to follow an itinerary nor share our views with masses of humanity. We saw another side of these vast wildernesses still quietly dusted in snow with animals unafraid to share their surroundings. Life is always about choices it seems.
We are now leaving the higher elevations in the Great Plains motoring onward toward the Midwest. We have spent 2 months in the mountains and it feels kind of strange to be back in the flatter lands. We’ll keep you posted.
XO,
Julie and Randy
May 4, 2010 thru May 30, 2010
The following is a very long journal entry encompassing the last month of our trip. I would be remiss if I didn’t send it, however, I understand if you choose to skip it. Either way, let’s stay in touch.
First stop after the last e-journal, Minuteman Missile National Historic Site just down the road from Badlands National Park in South Dakota. We viewed a short film, gained a brief history of the cold war, and declined a tour of the actual missile site. Instead, we chose to put a lot of mileage on down the road. Although, we couldn’t resist a peak at the Corn Palace in Mitchell or a brief visit at Falls Park on the Big Sioux River in Sioux Falls, SD. I would have loved to have seen this place when the American Indians lived here, before the city grew up around the cascading stepping stones of water.
High winds moved grasses along the roads of Minnesota like ripples over water. We drove past plowed fields lined up brightly with yellow wild flowers. I could smell spring. Lilac bushes, bunched together like school chums at a bus stop, grew wild at the occasional highway exit ramp. We have learned thru our travels to appreciate a well constructed, smooth highway after the rough ride through Minnesota and part of Wisconsin.
We arrived in the Chicago area, where Randy grew up, to visit our bachelor friend “Raff” and see the renovations completed on his childhood home. Impressed with the extensive modernizing updates, including the kitchen and bath, we can appreciate the hard work that went into this project. Taking time to tour the town of Glen Ellyn evoked pleasant memories of businesses and homes from the past along with some new buildings taking their place. The guys took me out for lobster on Mother’s Day honoring our Moms then and now. Yellow finches, sidewalks, and tree lined streets, fresh frozen raspberries, giant orange poppies, and beautiful parks will always remind me affectionately of Glen Ellyn. Our last day here we took the train into Chicago and then hopped on a water taxi to Michigan Avenue. First stop was Billy Goat Tavern and Grill, world famous for their “cheezborgers” and the skit from “Saturday Night Live”. I was impressed with the tulips flourishing in huge planters lined up along the sidewalks in front of gorgeous skyscrapers. We enjoyed stunning views of Lake Michigan as seen from the 96th floor in the Signature Room Lounge of the John Hancock Building. A long, chilly walk down the Navy Pier allowed us to take photos of the city and lake as they competed with each other in beauty. Fair well, Chicago, until next we meet.
It has been over two decades since I’ve been back to reconnect with my past and I let a sense of anticipation flow over me as we headed out the next day for my home town of St. Clair Shores, Michigan. Thru the city of Detroit the traffic moved fast as Randy negotiated our exit heading east and my old stomping grounds. Still the same cute neighborhoods I remembered as a young girl…lovely soft, green lawns perfectly mowed. We used my Uncle Ronny’s home as our base camp for the next 4 nights because he has a nice long driveway. Presently, he lives in a nursing home and the house stands empty. My Aunt Else and Uncle Gary, as care givers, were there to greet and assist us in getting settled. Randy had to climb atop the camper to trim large branches from the tree by the driveway so we could park the 5th wheel. I walked with Randy around the house on Sixth Street comparing current conditions with my memory of the way things used to be; validating what was once so special. Apparently, we missed the blooming of the giant lilac bush out back, Aunt Do’s favorite when she was alive. Our evening ended enjoying food for the soul prepared by my Aunt and Uncle at their lovely residence in Royal Oak.
I enjoyed a nostalgic drive along Jefferson Avenue on our way to Mom Roose’s. Randy pulled down Rio Vista, where my Grandma and Grandpa Wheeler used to live. However, I couldn’t find Bennett’s, the corner store my Grandpa used to frequent…guess they tore it down. Pat O’Brien’s is still there (got to get me some of their fried perch) and Big Boys got a face lift.
Here in the Roose kitchen, little has changed except maybe our children have grown up, our hair a little grayer, and some loved ones have passed…so maybe a lot has changed but at this moment it doesn’t feel like it. We gather around the table sharing food, laughter, and love. It’s all good being with Mom, Mary Lynn, sharing oodles of her photos, Barry stopping by on his way to work, Bob and Carol joining us for dinner, a phone conversation with Brady, and Alyssa, bless her heart, came by later. Love you all. Randy and Lana have been faithful companions during this most special reunion. We have known each other for a life time and it’s as though I never left.
One of our most important goals was to visit Uncle Ronny at Autumn Woods Nursing Home. We found him nodding off in this wheelchair in the community area and gently roused him from his nap. It took a few moments, but he seemed to remember us…such a dear man. I got a bit emotional seeing him in such a vulnerable state. We exchanged memories together although Uncle Ronny’s were a bit eclectic in nature. We love him so much. Later, I arrived at my high school friend, Jan’s home for a night of euchre. It was so great surprising “the gang”, Donzi, Lo-Ass, Shar-Bear, and Mary. Eukes/Pukes got its roots over 30 years ago and it continues to remain a thriving club. The evening sped by in a flurry of conversation, laughter, and lots of wine…ya got to love it!
The weather has improved…sunshine, short sleeves, and jeans. I didn’t roll out of bed until noon. Vino, girlfriends, and euchre are a lethal combination. We took time to visit with Barry and Mary and family and see all the additions to their beautiful home. Mom Roose joined us there one last time and Justin & sons, Alyssa, and Ryan took the time to hang out with us too. So awesome to see you all…love you. Afterwards, a drive along the lakeshore provided us with a pleasant view. We cruised by a childhood home of mine on California Street, the hockey rink, schools, and many familiar roads, sparking fond memories along the way. The next morning, we hooked up to continue our trip back home. Just can’t think of a better way to pay homage to a man who loved to camp than “5th Wheeling it” in his drive way on Sixth Street. Thanks Uncle Ronny!
Was that Buffalo we saw grazing in the distant fields of Ohio? Toll road fees were insanely expensive as we traveled on turnpikes through Ohio and Pennsylvania so we planned another route to Virginia. Randy was able to “pay it forward” while assisting a fellow camper out of a deep rut he had driven into. It poured buckets of rain in West Virginia and Maryland providing the surrounding countryside with renewed green growth.
Arriving in Waynesboro, Virginia, we were greeted by our friends, Larry and Linda, and enjoyed a much awaited tour of their wonderful historic residence. They restored their elegant Queen Anne home, built in 1890, with impeccable attention to detail and each room appointed with wonderful antiques and handmade pieces of their own design. I loved the amazing English Garden style landscaping adorned with a variety of flora Larry grew from seeds and clippings. The wrap-around porches, original wood floors, and fireplaces adorning nearly every room added to the charm. So much “old town” flavor to be sampled throughout Waynesboro, nearby Stauton, and the magnificent farms scattered along the rolling countryside. Wait, is that an abandoned insane asylum we just drove by? Our last day together, the four of us drove up into the Shenandoah National Park and the Blue Ridge Parkway to take in the spectacular views of valleys far below. Occasionally shrouded in fog, the roads wound through beautiful forest and we were occasionally rewarded with glimpses of pink mountain laurel and the white blooms of wild raspberries. Back in town, shopping for antiques proved fruitful for me as I found a quaint, shabby-sheik, step stool to take home. Great food, conversation, and camaraderie made for new memories created together. Thanks, guys, for your warm Virginia hospitality…we will miss you.
Our first hint of Southern warmth greeted us in North Carolina and again in Charleston, South Carolina. “Hmm, what can we explore here? How about some Southern Plantations? We loved the bright, green swamps skirting the estates and watched several alligators navigate the algae covered waters of the lowlands. Charleston is a charming town and we enjoyed perfect weather for meandering thru the streets in the historic district and taking in “must sees” such as the market place. For lunch we sampled some shrimp and grits. Now, I am not one to choose grits if offered but these were delicious. I could grow used to eating grits if prepared this particular “southern” style. Gentle ocean breezes caressed my face as we sat on a park bench watching the sailboats and children running thru a fountain in their swim suits. Perfectly relaxing and people seemed happy.
Arriving at Fort Clinch State Park in Fernandina Beach, we relaxed at one of our top ten campsites on the trip. Resplendent with views of the dunes and ocean from our camper we also enjoyed some long beach walks. Intrigued, Randy sat watching the distant freighters come into the St. Mary’s Inlet. We loved exploring Amelia Island and historic downtown Fernandina Beach with a light lunch and some shopping. Little Lana got to go with us, happily sniffing smells along the cobbled streets, causing people to turn their heads and smile. My favorite was bicycling thru Fort Clinch under the canopy of live oak trees.
Fort George Island is an interesting place as humans have lived there for over 6,000 years. Utilizing the virtual ranger tour, via DVD, was a great way to learn about the history of this Island at our own driving pace. I was fascinated by the Shell Middens which are ancient trash heaps and the oyster shell concrete known as Tabby. We also toured Kingsley Plantation, the oldest in Florida.
Another of the North Florida barrier Islands, Little Talbot marks our last campsite for this trip. We were fortunate to get 4 nights over Memorial Day weekend without reservations. We finally got to use the Kayaks while exploring the salt water marshes surrounding the island. There are many state parks in the area and our favorite, the “bone yard beach” on Big Talbot, is an amazing vista of live oak and cedar driftwood sculptures strewn randomly along the eroded cliffs and sandy beach.
On May 30th, we made the final few hours home. We have journeyed over 12,000 miles or the equivalent of driving half way around the world over some challenging terrain. From the very beginning I knew it had to come to an end. Three months seems like a huge chunk of time until you reach the final few weeks that seem to pass by at such an accelerated rate. As quoted from the rock band the “Great-full Dead, “what a long, hard trip it’s been”, but definitely worth it.
Writing this journal has proved to be a creative exercise in the documentation of time well spent and I have enjoyed sharing it with everyone. Some things I have learned; a deep respect for this land and its history, an appreciation for a smooth highway, remain open minded to all experiences and, no matter how much time has passed good friends are forever.
